Tag 21-22, Svaneti

Tag 21, 28. Juli, Di, Tskaltubo-Uschguli

SvanetiAm Morgen versuchte ich dann in die Region Svaneti zu kommen, von der wirklich 90% der Leute, mit denen ich mit unterhalten hatte, geschwärmt haben. Aber die auch gesagt haben, trampen sei dort nicht möglich. Aber das hat ja nichts zu heißen, denn probiert hatte es niemand. Und wer hätte es gedacht, es hat natürlich auch geklappt. Bis Lentechi kam ich relativ gut. Dort traf ich auf zwei polnische Tramper, die auch in meine Richtung wollten, aber nur kleine Rucksäcke dabei hatten. Sie wollten nicht am Wegesrand warten und liefen lieber. Ich setzte mich also unter einen Baum und las. Und las und las; Autos aus der Gegenrichtung kamen immer mal wieder vorbei und dann irgendwann auch ein Jeep mit einer Russin ihrem Freund aus dem Oman. Sie nahmen mich mit und später auch die beiden Polen. Da man im Oman mit Jeeps auch gerne in den Bergen herumfährt, wurde es eine sehr lustige Fahrt, denn die “Straße” war noch weniger eine Straße als der Weg von Tschargali nach Schatili und die Berglandschaft einfach überwältigend – wieder einmal. Nach Sonnenuntergang kamen wir dann in Uschguli an, die Russin und ihr Freund fuhren in ein Hotel und die Polen und ich bauten unsere Zelte auf und aßen dann ein spärlichen Abendmahl in deren Zelt, denn draußen war es schon ziemlich kalt.

Tag 22, 29. Juli, Mi, Uschguli-Mestia

Am Morgen stand ich früh auf, um den Sonnenaufgang beobachten zu können – allerdings zu früh, denn die Sonne ließ sich Zeit. Doch als es so weit war, machte ich bestimmt einhundert Bilder.
Danach warteten wir auf die Russin und ihren Freund, weil wir eigentlich mit ihnen weiterfahren wollten und ich auch meine Karte in deren Auto vergessen hatte. Wir warteten lange, aber die beiden tauchten nicht auf. Auch andere Autos fuhren nicht, sodass wir ein Taxi nahmen, aber nicht den normalen Preis, sondern nur ein Drittel zahlten. Wir fuhren bis Mestia, wo wir uns auf einem spottbilligen Campingplatz niederließen, das Duschen genossen, gemeinsam etwas aßen und Karten spielten. Es war eine gute Erholung zum täglichen Rumreisen.

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Day 21-22, Svaneti

Day 21, July 28th, Tue, Tskaltubo-Ushguli

SvanetiIn the morning I tried to get to Svaneti that had been recommended to me by 90% of the people I met. But they also said it was impossible to hitchhike there. But I mean honestly it doesn’t mean anything, since none of them tried – and who would believe it? It worked of course…partly. Till Lentechi it went ok. I met two cool Polish hitchhikers who went in the same direction. They had smaller backpacks so they were walking. But I was more in the mood to sit under a tree and read until a car would pass. Cars from the other direction came from time to time and the after some hours a jeep in my direction as well. A Russian girl and her boyfriend from Oman were sitting inside and some 30 minutes later we the two Polish fellows. Since people cruise through the mountains in Oman as well, it was an awesome ride. The road was even less a road then the one to Shatili and the landscape – just amazing once again. After sunset we arrived in Ushguli, the Russian and her bf went to some hotel and of course the Polish and me pitched our tent on a mountain and ate a small dinner in their tent, because it was quite cold outside.

Day 22, July 29th, Wed, Ushguli-Mestia

I got up early to watch the sunrise, but it was too early the sun didn’t hurry. But by the time I shot about a hundred photos.
Then we were waiting for the Russian and the Omani because initially we wanted to go with them especially because I forgot my map in their car. But they didn’t show up and I didn’t see the car in the village. Other cars weren’t going as well so we decided to go by taxi. But we didn’t pay the normal price, but a third. We went to Mestia to a dirty cheap camping ground, enjoyed a fresh shower, ate together and played cards. It was a nice change to the daily travel.

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Day 19-20, Chargali – Shatili – Tskaltubo

Day 19, July 26ht, Sun, Chargali-Shatili

Chargali-Shatili-TskaltuboI didn’t know the reason why I wanted to go to Shatili or how I got to know that special village. But it was fantastic and I haven’t seen something like this before. Georgia can be a really magical country. The street from Chargali to Shatili is more or less just a dirt road that curls over the 2676m high Datvisjvari Pass. I was super lucky to hitch a ride by a truck that even went further to deliver wood. Till the pass we had the Kazbeg in our backs, surrounded by dark clouds. After the pass the rainy clouds caught us and we were surrounded my hundreds of sheep crossing the road for several times, Due to the rain the road because from dirty to very dirty and a bit slippery and the truck was wide whereas the road was narrow. At some points there were slopes to a river on one side and on the other side sharp rubble from above. One time I had to pilot the truck through the rubble – in sandals that I was wearing cleverly.
At some point we bended and there was Shatili. Ich didn’t know how it would look like and was speechless. On the photos that I posted one can imagine a bit. It was raining and I tried to get onto the mountain apartments in sandals. After some minutes a man whose name I forgot shouted at me I should come to his place. He was coach of a box club that is meeting once a year there for some kind of camp. There was no running water, well actually there nothing – just a space on the floor under a roof, but it was enough for me, I was very happy. We drank wine and beer and ate bread with cheese.

Day 20, July 27th, Mon, Shatili-Tskaltubo

In the morning the weather was better. While the boxers were sleeping and strolled through the village, enjoyed the beautiful landscape and then started to go to Svaneti. I thought that it would take long time, to get out of Shatili, but only after like 30 minutes I got a ride to Tbilisi and from there I went to Kutaisi. In one town I could finally get some money as well after having spent four whole days without any money. Two times I caught rides with drunk people, of whom the last ones missed the exit to Kutaisi permanently which made me quite angry. In the end a grandfather with his granddaughter, who is going to Germany for school, took me to Tskaltubo where I slept in the yard of an abandoned school camp building.

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